Here are some great photos from the Bouldering World Cup in Vail from Cody’s mom Joanne. Great job to all ABC athletes and coaches who competed in this prestigious event!
Hi ABCers! We’ve got another workshop with Coach Robyn and Coach Obe scheduled for November 12th from 10am – 2pm at ABC. This workshop is for youth climbers of all ages and levels with at least one year’s climbing experience. You do not have to be an ABC climber to join, so bring a friend!
The themes of this workshop are Precision, Memorization, and Recovery.
Here are some photos of Robyn and Obe’s October Workshop: Workshop with Robyn and Obe #1
Team ABC, are you getting psyched for the Hueco trip? Check out this cool video of Coach Obe from Hueco this summer:
Team ABC is proud to welcome Obe Carrion as the newest coach of Team ABC!
Here is a message from Coach Robyn:
The world of competition climbing is in constant change and so is ABC. It is important to consider and incorporate the best new views and new methods through top youth coaching talent. Without further ado I’d like to announce a fantastic addition to our ABC Coaching Staff: Obe Carrion.
Obe Carrion has appeared in countless climbing movies including “Rampage” with Chris Sharma, won many competitions both as a youth and as an adult, has been a USA Climbing team member and was the 2002 ABS National Champion. He has traveled extensively and he has been climbing for 22 years.
For the purposes of ABC we are most impressed with his youth coaching abilities. Obe privately coached youth wonder-climber Ashima Shirashi for over 4 ½ years and was with her when she did some of her most amazing work. Check out Sender’s 2011 film “Origins: Obe & Ashima” if you didn’t already catch it at the Reel Rock Film tour.
While Ashima is the youth athlete he is most famous for coaching (to this point) he’s also far from a one-hit wonder. Other youth athletes that Obe’s coached include: Emma Chilton (2nd North American Youth Championship in Montreal 2008, 3rd female open at last year’s Dark Horse, sponsored by Mad Rock), Connor MacDonald (2009 US Youth World Team Member, 4th 2010 ABS Junior National, sponsored by Granit Life), Zoe Steinberg (1st 2011 ABS Junior Nationals Girls B, sponsored by 5.10), Molly Gaynor (1st 2011 JIBS, sponsored by Mad Rock), Alex Bodson (5th Boys B 2010 SCS Junior Nationals), Matt Cysner (22nd 2011 ABS Junior Nationals), and Melissa Hopkins (2nd Black Out Boulder Brawl at MetroRock).
We look forward to Obe’s energy, fresh perspective and undiluted talents as a youth climbing coach. He has personally experienced climbing competition as a youth and feels it is now time to give back and Obe feels that ABC is the right place for him to do this. We couldn’t agree more.
Here are some more photos and the highlights video from last weekend’s SBC Pro Tour. Most are from Beau Kahler, and you can see his whole album on facebook at – UBC Pro Tour Seattle 2012
Again congratulations to Mike O’Rourke for his 3rd place finish!
43 men entered the Men’s Pro Open category at the Seattle Bouldering Challenge Pro, a Unified Bouldering Challenge Pro Open Tour stop event. This is the first time this event has been in Seattle, and the purse was huge! $10,000 total for the open categories!
Of the 43 male entrants, only 20 advanced to semifinals. Team ABC had three representatives at the comp. Coach Rob D’Anastasio, who qualified in 4th; Coach Garrett Gregor, who qualified in 10th; and Elite Team athlete Michael O’Rourke, who qualified in 13th.
After semis the field was moved around considerably, with Coach Rob D’Anastasio finishing in 10th and Coach Garrett Gregor finishing in 16th.
Michael was in 5th after semifinals, so he was one of 6 men to go on to finals.
The scores were constantly updating and there was no live feed so it was hard to tell what was happening from moment to moment, but when all was said and done Michael had climbed very well and ended up in a very proud 3rd place.
Great job Michael!!!
Here are the scores from the finals.
Nice job to all who competed, especially Josh Larson who has taken his first major pro comp win. The scores are very close and it’s clear that all the competitors gave great efforts.
Videos on Facebook: Pro Climbers International
Full video from LT11 should be out soon!
We are happy to congratulate Coach Robyn on realizing her first 8c. Hot on the coattails of Brooke, Robyn has also climbed Welcome to Tijuana.
Here is what she had to say about the ascent:
Inspired once again by my kids, I did Welcome yesterday! By far my hardest send yet. I’ve done three 8b+’s in the past few weeks and this 8C was a strong notch above the other routes I sent. Big milestone for me.
Nice job Robyn!!! So inspiring!!!
We are very proud to share the news that Brooke has done her first 8c (14b) with Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar, Spain. With this ascent Brooke (age 11) is the youngest person in the world to climb a route this difficult. You may remember last March when Brooke did her first 14a and simultaneously became the youngest person in the world to climb that grade with Italian Tito Traversa, who at the same age did his first 14a on the same day. Now with this ascent of a 14b Brooke holds the title to herself. Nice job Brooke!
Coach Robyn emailed with some info on how the ascent went down:
Brooke sent Welcome to Tijuana! We have been working it together amongst other routes. You know I’ve been doing other routes these past couple of weeks so we have been getting on Welcome a couple times a week just to see how close we could get. Brooke has looked good from the very beginning but until a few days ago, she couldn’t do the final moves just before the belay. These are the same moves that gave Shawn trouble last year (small holds far apart). The taller people do a big move and it’s over but Shawn and Brooke found a way for them that ends up being the hardest moves on the entire climb. Once she got the last boulder problem, she started trying to redpoint. After getting to the top 6 times (basically doing the 8c), she finally pulled off the final 4 moves and sent the route. It was beautiful to watch and the entire valley of Rodellar was cheering for her.
The climbing world is very inspired by the ascent and many sites have posted about Brooke including: