Category Archives: International Comps

Alex Puccio joins Team ABC as Elite Coach

Team ABC is proud to announce that Alex Puccio has joined its’ world class coaching staff.

Alex is a seven time USAC bouldering national champion.  Other highlights of 2013 include 3rd place overall in the ISFC Bouldering World Cup Series and wins at the  Arco Rockmasters and Vail World Cup.

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Robyn Raboutou, Team ABC Founder and Head Coach explains Alex’s natural fit to the coaching line-up.  “All of Team ABC is excited to have Alex on board. She is one of the top female climbers of this generation and her experiences as a youth climber is similar to that of the Team ABC athletes.  Her passion, talent and dedication are a perfect complement to our program.”

Alex started climbing as a teenager and quickly progressed to the top-tier of the sport. She has always sought to share her passion of climbing so coaching is a natural progression. “By coaching the up and coming rock stars of our future, I can give back to the sport I love. I can share my knowledge and experiences gained over the past 11 years with these young climbers in the hopes that it will assist them in achieving their goals and ambitions for the future,” stated Alex.

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For more information, contact Robyn Raboutou at robyn@teamabcboulder.com

7th at IFSC Youth World Championship for Margo Hayes!

Margo lowering at IFSC Youth Worlds

Margo lowering at IFSC Youth Worlds

We’d like to congratulate Team ABC Elite athlete Margo Hayes on her 7th place finish at this year’s IFSC Youth World Championships!

Here are the results from Margo’s category: General result female youth B lead

Margo flashed both of her qualifiers and was tied for 2nd after semis.  As you can see, her category had a very close final, with 5 of the 8 girls falling from or moving off the same hold! That hold 26 must have been quite the crux. In the end Margo took a very proud 7th place.

Way to go Margo!!!

Here are some photos of the event:

Margo Hayes Youth World Championships Team ABC Boulder

Margo Hayes Team ABC Boulder IFSC Youth World Championships

Margo being interviewed for the Canadian paper

Margo being interviewed for the Canadian paper

Margo had some great support!

Margo had some great support!

8A (V11) in Fontainebleau and 2nd at European Youth Cup for Shawn

Shawn sticking the last move of Brat sit (8A)

Shawn sticking the last move of Sale Gosse Assis (8A)

Shawn Raboutou has been having a good summer in France. Most recently he visited Fontainebleau with the French team where he climbed several 7C (V9) boulders and the very committing Salle Goss Assis (8A/V11). More about that in this article on Kairn.com: Shawn Raboutou à Bleau (I recommend google translate if you don’t have a translation browser).

Shawn also competed in a European  Youth Bouldering Cup and got 2nd place. Here are some photos:

Shawn competing

Shawn competing

Shawn on Final 3

Shawn on Final 3.

Hope everyone is having a great summer!

Shawn takes Gold at the French Cup!

Shawn Raboutou French Cup June 2013

Nice job Shawn!

ABC at the Bouldering World Cup!

Here are some great photos from the Bouldering World Cup in Vail from Cody’s mom Joanne. Great job to all ABC athletes and coaches who competed in this prestigious event!

Megan Mascarenas in qualifiers

Megan Mascarenas in qualifiers

 

Michael O'Rourke in qualifiers.

Michael O’Rourke in qualifiers.

 

Coach Garrett in qualifiers.

Coach Garrett in qualifiers.

Another great shot of Coach Garrett in qualifiers.

Another great shot of Coach Garrett in qualifiers.

 

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore – Speed Photos

Here is the final set of photos we will be sharing from the 2012 IFSC Youth World Championship in Singapore. We are very proud of ABC Elite Team climber Margo Hayes for her 8th place finish in Female Youth B Lead. The event looked amazing and the venue was unbeatable. Enjoy the photos and make sure to check out the links to the photographer and to all our coverage of this event at the bottom of this page.

Getting ready

Getting set

Going!!!  Team USA

Team USA

Scenery…

This girl looks kinda like Brooke!

Team USA!

Team USA!

Tagging the finish

Wow

All photos by Garick Bay / courtesy IFSC World Youth Championship Singapore 2012 Facebook Group

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If you missed it, here’s the rest of our 2012 IFSC Youth World Championships coverage:

Day 1 – Margo going to Worlds!

Day 1 – Quali 1

Day 2 – Qualis 1 results + photos

Day 2 – Qualis 2 results + more photos

Day 3 – Rain Delay activities

Day 3 – Lead Final Results

Day 3 – Finals + Semifinals photos + A great sequence of Margo

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore – More photos + A Great Margo Sequence

This island was the venue. Looks like a fun place.

A photographer named Garick Bay shot the whole event and uploaded the photos every night to the IFSC Youth World Championships 2012 Singapore facebook page. We picked some of our favorites from lead semis and finals to share here. Speed climbing will come tomorrow. To see ‘em all, go to facebook and search for the event.

Serious concentration, interesting body positions, and don’t forget to breathe!

The rose move

Jure of Team Slovenia. He ended up in 3rd.

Domen of Team Slovenia. Took 2nd. Could have a back up career as a contortionist.

Very serious

Team Mexico

Grr face

The one-eyed stare

Serious consideration at preview

The scientifically proven tongue method. Daniel Woods does it. So did Michael Jordan!

Team USA!

Team USA!

Surprise clip!

Not a bad place to be lowered back to

And here is a great sequence of Margo

The photographer posted one or two photos of most kids, but for Margo he posted a bunch. Enjoy!

Ready for a clip.

Pulling slack

Post-clip chalk

Another clip

Multi-tasking

Moving on up

And up…

And up!

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore – Lead Final Results – Margo in 8th! – UPDATED

We are so proud of Team ABC Elite athlete Margo Hayes for her 8th place finish at the 2012 Youth World Championships! Margo was one of only 3 US Team members to make finals.

Finally no rain, so back to iso!

The competitors had to overcome some serious rainstorms and lots of extra downtime and what I imagine may have been less-than-ideal plastic conditions to try and earn their place on the podium.

Wow

Just making finals, as Margo did, is a huge achievement on the World level. Joining Margo in Female Youth B finals was American Claire Buhrfeind, who ended up in 6th. Between them was Margo’s neck-in-neck for the event, Molly Thompson-Smith of Great Britain.

The highest placing American (and the only other American to make finals) was Junior Male Sean Bailey, who got 5th. Nice job Sean!

Here are the full Team USA placements in lead:

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Female Junior

Michaela Kiersch- 16th

Cicada Jenerik – 17th

Shannon Lochridge – 21st

Nicole Hansen – 36th

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Male Junior

Owen Graham – 20th

Alex Fritz – 22nd

Josh Levin – 23rd

Noah Ridge – 25th

Andy Lamb – 29th

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Female Youth A

Kyra Condie – 17th

Jacquelyn Wu – 19th

Callie Walter – 29th

Amelia Metcalf – 39th

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Male Youth A

Sean Bailey – 5th – finalist

Dylan Barks – 11th

Nicholas Milburn – 27th

Dominic LaBarge – 41st

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Female Youth B

Claire Buhrfeind – 6th – finalist

Margo Hayes – 8th – finalist

Grace McKeehan – 14th

Rita Marsanova – 15th

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Male Youth B

Solomon Barth – 19th

Jesse Grupper – 24th

Brendan Mitchell – 25th

Cole Skinner – 41st

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Nice job to all the competitors at this incredible event!

Team USA! Or at least most of it.  : )

We will share more as it comes in, for now to see full lead results click here – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore Day 3 – RAIN!!!

Apparently the monsoon-like conditions totally shut down semifinals for most of the day.

Oh no!

However now (and it’s 11pm Boulder time on Thursday night) the rain has stopped and the walls are being dried.

Here is the new schedule for the comp and ifsc.tv’s live coverage.

To make the best of the rain and the dry-time, the competitors have been having fun in the sand. From Team USA climber Josh Levin here are a couple of pictures of the kids playing cricket and a sand beaver that was apparently built by the Canadians.

Canadian Sand Beaver | Josh Levin photo

Cricket in the sand

More cricket!

You have to admit, it looks like a fun way to spend the afternoon.

And a shot of the setting set-up, also from Josh

We will try to update with more results as they come in. You can also check ifsc-climbing.org. Stay tuned!!!

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore Day 2 Team USA Results + Margo! + More Photos!

The impromptu long jump competition

In the middle of the Qualifier 2 round yesterday it began raining, hard. Then eventually it stopped. All the countries decided to keep climbing through the night to finish the round. Apparently the kids made the best of the break and had a long jump competition in the sand while the setters were drying the routes. This seriously looks like the most fun competition venue ever!

Pretty sure this is Margo. She fell but she fell at a new highpoint.

Margo’s highpoint on Female Youth B Quali 2 was matched by only one other climber, Molly Thompson-Smith of Great Britain. Rankings are based on combined score of Q1 and Q2 so Margo and Molly, who performed identically on both Quali routes, are tied for 2nd behind Team USA climber Claire Buhrfeind.

Team USA!

Here are the Team USA scores for climbers who are going into semifinals:

Girls

Shannon Lochridge – Female Junior – 10th

Michaela Kiersch – Female Junior – 21st

Cicada Jenerik – Female Junior – 25th

Kyra Condie – Female A – 16th

Jacquelyn Wu – Female A – 18th

Claire Buhrfeind – Female B – 1st

Margo Hayes – Female B – 2nd

Rita Marsanova – Female B – 13th

Grace McKeehan – Female B – 17th

Team USA!  Dominic LaBarge.

Boys

Alex Fritz – Male Junior – 15th

Josh Levin – Male Junior – 18th

Noah Ridge – Male Junior – 19th

Owen Graham – Male Junior – 22nd

Sean Bailey – Male A – 14th

Nicholas Milburn – Male A – 16th

Dylan Barks – Male A – 20th

Brendan Mitchell – Male B – tied for 4th with Sergei Bydtaev (RUS)

Jesse Grupper – Male B – 17th

Solomon Barth – Male B – 22nd

Such a nice color on the wall.

And here are the Team USA scores for climbers who did not make semis:

Girls

Nicole Hansen – Female Junior – 36th

Callie Walter – Female A – 29th

Amelia Metcalf – Female A – 39th

Boys

Andrew Lamb – Male Junior – 29th

Dominic LaBarge – Male A – 41st

Cole Skinner – Male B – 41st

Full Results (use dropdown menus to toggle between categories) – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result female youth B lead

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A note about the holds

One of the most difficult things about competing internationally, besides of course the travel, jet lag, different food, different climate, different everything, is that the holds and volumes are often entirely new. US competitors competing in the US can reasonably expect to have some knowledge of the holds, because they will have seen many of them before in their home gyms. Internationally, many or all of the holds will be unknowns. This means that route reading is more difficult because you cannot, from the ground, know if that next hold is an incut pinch or a slopey pinch. You don’t know if you’re jumping for a flat ledge or if there’s a sweet spot on that volume. All of this makes for a much more challenging onsight experience.

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More Pictures!

Nice flag!

Wow clipping position…

Wow volumes again!

Team USA!

Screen shot from the live feed

Another screen shot. Rita of Team USA top right.

Josh Levin of Team USA about to fall off in the top left corner. Very good performance though!

To see all the photos and like the IFSC Youth World Championships page on facebook, click here – IFSC World Youth Championship Singapore 2012.

GO TEAM USA!!!