Monthly Archives: August 2012
We are so proud of Team ABC Elite athlete Margo Hayes for her 8th place finish at the 2012 Youth World Championships! Margo was one of only 3 US Team members to make finals.
The competitors had to overcome some serious rainstorms and lots of extra downtime and what I imagine may have been less-than-ideal plastic conditions to try and earn their place on the podium.
Just making finals, as Margo did, is a huge achievement on the World level. Joining Margo in Female Youth B finals was American Claire Buhrfeind, who ended up in 6th. Between them was Margo’s neck-in-neck for the event, Molly Thompson-Smith of Great Britain.
The highest placing American (and the only other American to make finals) was Junior Male Sean Bailey, who got 5th. Nice job Sean!
Here are the full Team USA placements in lead:
Michaela Kiersch- 16th
Cicada Jenerik – 17th
Shannon Lochridge – 21st
Nicole Hansen – 36th
Owen Graham – 20th
Alex Fritz – 22nd
Josh Levin – 23rd
Noah Ridge – 25th
Andy Lamb – 29th
Female Youth A
Kyra Condie – 17th
Jacquelyn Wu – 19th
Callie Walter – 29th
Amelia Metcalf – 39th
Male Youth A
Sean Bailey – 5th – finalist
Dylan Barks – 11th
Nicholas Milburn – 27th
Dominic LaBarge – 41st
Female Youth B
Claire Buhrfeind – 6th – finalist
Margo Hayes – 8th – finalist
Grace McKeehan – 14th
Rita Marsanova – 15th
Male Youth B
Solomon Barth – 19th
Jesse Grupper – 24th
Brendan Mitchell – 25th
Cole Skinner – 41st
Nice job to all the competitors at this incredible event!
We will share more as it comes in, for now to see full lead results click here - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result
Apparently the monsoon-like conditions totally shut down semifinals for most of the day.
However now (and it’s 11pm Boulder time on Thursday night) the rain has stopped and the walls are being dried.
To make the best of the rain and the dry-time, the competitors have been having fun in the sand. From Team USA climber Josh Levin here are a couple of pictures of the kids playing cricket and a sand beaver that was apparently built by the Canadians.
We will try to update with more results as they come in. You can also check ifsc-climbing.org. Stay tuned!!!
In the middle of the Qualifier 2 round yesterday it began raining, hard. Then eventually it stopped. All the countries decided to keep climbing through the night to finish the round. Apparently the kids made the best of the break and had a long jump competition in the sand while the setters were drying the routes. This seriously looks like the most fun competition venue ever!
Margo’s highpoint on Female Youth B Quali 2 was matched by only one other climber, Molly Thompson-Smith of Great Britain. Rankings are based on combined score of Q1 and Q2 so Margo and Molly, who performed identically on both Quali routes, are tied for 2nd behind Team USA climber Claire Buhrfeind.
Here are the Team USA scores for climbers who are going into semifinals:
Shannon Lochridge – Female Junior – 10th
Michaela Kiersch – Female Junior – 21st
Cicada Jenerik – Female Junior – 25th
Kyra Condie – Female A – 16th
Jacquelyn Wu – Female A – 18th
Claire Buhrfeind – Female B – 1st
Margo Hayes – Female B – 2nd
Rita Marsanova – Female B – 13th
Grace McKeehan – Female B – 17th
Alex Fritz – Male Junior – 15th
Josh Levin – Male Junior – 18th
Noah Ridge – Male Junior – 19th
Owen Graham – Male Junior – 22nd
Sean Bailey – Male A – 14th
Nicholas Milburn – Male A – 16th
Dylan Barks – Male A – 20th
Brendan Mitchell – Male B – tied for 4th with Sergei Bydtaev (RUS)
Jesse Grupper – Male B – 17th
Solomon Barth – Male B – 22nd
And here are the Team USA scores for climbers who did not make semis:
Nicole Hansen – Female Junior – 36th
Callie Walter – Female A – 29th
Amelia Metcalf – Female A – 39th
Andrew Lamb – Male Junior – 29th
Dominic LaBarge – Male A – 41st
Cole Skinner – Male B – 41st
Full Results (use dropdown menus to toggle between categories) - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result female youth B lead
A note about the holds
One of the most difficult things about competing internationally, besides of course the travel, jet lag, different food, different climate, different everything, is that the holds and volumes are often entirely new. US competitors competing in the US can reasonably expect to have some knowledge of the holds, because they will have seen many of them before in their home gyms. Internationally, many or all of the holds will be unknowns. This means that route reading is more difficult because you cannot, from the ground, know if that next hold is an incut pinch or a slopey pinch. You don’t know if you’re jumping for a flat ledge or if there’s a sweet spot on that volume. All of this makes for a much more challenging onsight experience.
To see all the photos and like the IFSC Youth World Championships page on facebook, click here – IFSC World Youth Championship Singapore 2012.
GO TEAM USA!!!
Margo Hayes reached hold 34+ out of 41 on Qualification Route 2. For a while she was in first place overll and now she’s been bumped to 2nd by teammate Claire Buhrfeind who only got to hold 31+ on QR2 but who made it the highpoint (hold 27+) on QR1. Margo currently has highpoint on QR2 with about 1/2 of her category still to climb. Margo was ranked in a tie for 3rd after QR1 yesterday. We will see where she ends up after the category has climbed but so far she has put on a spectacular performance. Great job Margo!
Fellow Team USA climber Josh Levin put on a fantastic performance as well and got close to highpoint on his 2nd quali route. Here are some photos from the IFSC Youth World Championship Singapore facebook page:
And now this is happening…
More photos and updates tomorrow. Great job Margo and great job Team USA!
We are happy to report that Margo did well on her first qualification route yesterday, scoring 25+ 3. Which I think means she is currently tied for 3rd going into the 2nd qualification route today. There were several other 25+ 3. scores, and the highest I saw was 27 1. To see for yourself, click here –> IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional General result female youth B lead. Nice job so far Margo!!!
Remember, many parts of this event will be broadcast live here - IFSC.tv | Live Climbing from around the World - and we will keep you posted as we learn more results.
We are so proud of Margo Hayes, who is one of a small group of Team USA climbers representing the US at the 2012 IFSC Youth World Championships in Singapore this week. The competition starts tomorrow Singapore time and you can watch the live feed here – IFSC.tv | Live Climbing from around the World
Read Margo’s profile here - Margo Hayes « Team ABC Boulder
Resultlists will be found here as soon as results start coming in - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional results - you can use the drop down menus to toggle between events and categories.
Good luck MARGO!!!
We are excited to share that Shawn and Brooke are featured in an article entitled “Next Generation” featuring several accomplished young climbers from around the world. The article is on the German climbing site klettern.de.
The cover page:
Here are links to the articles for Brooke and Shawn. They are in German, but Google Translate does a pretty good, if sometimes funny, job at making them readable. Use the links or click the photos below.
If you think you’ve got what it takes, come on down to ABC Saturday or Sunday and show us how hard you can try. All new and returning athletes are expected to try out. Please pre-register (it’s free) so we know how many to expect. See you this weekend!
The American Alpine Club has done an extended interview with Coach Robyn. Click the photo above, or click here to read it! How Robin Erbesfield-Raboutou Makes Kids into Elite Climbers