Monthly Archives: August 2012

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore – Lead Final Results – Margo in 8th! – UPDATED

We are so proud of Team ABC Elite athlete Margo Hayes for her 8th place finish at the 2012 Youth World Championships! Margo was one of only 3 US Team members to make finals.

Finally no rain, so back to iso!

The competitors had to overcome some serious rainstorms and lots of extra downtime and what I imagine may have been less-than-ideal plastic conditions to try and earn their place on the podium.

Wow

Just making finals, as Margo did, is a huge achievement on the World level. Joining Margo in Female Youth B finals was American Claire Buhrfeind, who ended up in 6th. Between them was Margo’s neck-in-neck for the event, Molly Thompson-Smith of Great Britain.

The highest placing American (and the only other American to make finals) was Junior Male Sean Bailey, who got 5th. Nice job Sean!

Here are the full Team USA placements in lead:

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Female Junior

Michaela Kiersch- 16th

Cicada Jenerik – 17th

Shannon Lochridge – 21st

Nicole Hansen – 36th

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Male Junior

Owen Graham – 20th

Alex Fritz – 22nd

Josh Levin – 23rd

Noah Ridge – 25th

Andy Lamb – 29th

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Female Youth A

Kyra Condie – 17th

Jacquelyn Wu – 19th

Callie Walter – 29th

Amelia Metcalf – 39th

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Male Youth A

Sean Bailey – 5th – finalist

Dylan Barks – 11th

Nicholas Milburn – 27th

Dominic LaBarge – 41st

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Female Youth B

Claire Buhrfeind – 6th – finalist

Margo Hayes – 8th – finalist

Grace McKeehan – 14th

Rita Marsanova – 15th

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Male Youth B

Solomon Barth – 19th

Jesse Grupper – 24th

Brendan Mitchell – 25th

Cole Skinner – 41st

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Nice job to all the competitors at this incredible event!

Team USA! Or at least most of it.  : )

We will share more as it comes in, for now to see full lead results click here - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore Day 3 – RAIN!!!

Apparently the monsoon-like conditions totally shut down semifinals for most of the day.

Oh no!

However now (and it’s 11pm Boulder time on Thursday night) the rain has stopped and the walls are being dried.

Here is the new schedule for the comp and ifsc.tv’s live coverage.

To make the best of the rain and the dry-time, the competitors have been having fun in the sand. From Team USA climber Josh Levin here are a couple of pictures of the kids playing cricket and a sand beaver that was apparently built by the Canadians.

Canadian Sand Beaver | Josh Levin photo

Cricket in the sand

More cricket!

You have to admit, it looks like a fun way to spend the afternoon.

And a shot of the setting set-up, also from Josh

We will try to update with more results as they come in. You can also check ifsc-climbing.org. Stay tuned!!!

IFSC Youth World Championships Singapore Day 2 Team USA Results + Margo! + More Photos!

The impromptu long jump competition

In the middle of the Qualifier 2 round yesterday it began raining, hard. Then eventually it stopped. All the countries decided to keep climbing through the night to finish the round. Apparently the kids made the best of the break and had a long jump competition in the sand while the setters were drying the routes. This seriously looks like the most fun competition venue ever!

Pretty sure this is Margo. She fell but she fell at a new highpoint.

Margo’s highpoint on Female Youth B Quali 2 was matched by only one other climber, Molly Thompson-Smith of Great Britain. Rankings are based on combined score of Q1 and Q2 so Margo and Molly, who performed identically on both Quali routes, are tied for 2nd behind Team USA climber Claire Buhrfeind.

Team USA!

Here are the Team USA scores for climbers who are going into semifinals:

Girls

Shannon Lochridge – Female Junior – 10th

Michaela Kiersch – Female Junior – 21st

Cicada Jenerik – Female Junior – 25th

Kyra Condie – Female A – 16th

Jacquelyn Wu – Female A – 18th

Claire Buhrfeind – Female B – 1st

Margo Hayes – Female B – 2nd

Rita Marsanova – Female B – 13th

Grace McKeehan – Female B – 17th

Team USA!  Dominic LaBarge.

Boys

Alex Fritz – Male Junior – 15th

Josh Levin – Male Junior – 18th

Noah Ridge – Male Junior – 19th

Owen Graham – Male Junior – 22nd

Sean Bailey – Male A – 14th

Nicholas Milburn – Male A – 16th

Dylan Barks – Male A – 20th

Brendan Mitchell – Male B – tied for 4th with Sergei Bydtaev (RUS)

Jesse Grupper – Male B – 17th

Solomon Barth – Male B – 22nd

Such a nice color on the wall.

And here are the Team USA scores for climbers who did not make semis:

Girls

Nicole Hansen – Female Junior – 36th

Callie Walter – Female A – 29th

Amelia Metcalf – Female A – 39th

Boys

Andrew Lamb – Male Junior – 29th

Dominic LaBarge – Male A – 41st

Cole Skinner – Male B – 41st

Full Results (use dropdown menus to toggle between categories) - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result female youth B lead

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A note about the holds

One of the most difficult things about competing internationally, besides of course the travel, jet lag, different food, different climate, different everything, is that the holds and volumes are often entirely new. US competitors competing in the US can reasonably expect to have some knowledge of the holds, because they will have seen many of them before in their home gyms. Internationally, many or all of the holds will be unknowns. This means that route reading is more difficult because you cannot, from the ground, know if that next hold is an incut pinch or a slopey pinch. You don’t know if you’re jumping for a flat ledge or if there’s a sweet spot on that volume. All of this makes for a much more challenging onsight experience.

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More Pictures!

Nice flag!

Wow clipping position…

Wow volumes again!

Team USA!

Screen shot from the live feed

Another screen shot. Rita of Team USA top right.

Josh Levin of Team USA about to fall off in the top left corner. Very good performance though!

To see all the photos and like the IFSC Youth World Championships page on facebook, click here – IFSC World Youth Championship Singapore 2012.

GO TEAM USA!!!

IFSC Youth World Championships Qualification Day 2 – Margo Hayes + Photos

So so beautiful | photo by USA Team Coach Scot Jenerik

Margo Hayes reached hold 34+ out of 41 on Qualification Route 2. For a while she was in first place overll and now she’s been bumped to 2nd by teammate Claire Buhrfeind who only got to hold 31+ on QR2 but who made it the highpoint (hold 27+) on QR1. Margo currently has highpoint on QR2 with about 1/2 of her category still to climb. Margo was ranked in a tie for 3rd after QR1 yesterday. We will see where she ends up after the category has climbed but so far she has put on a spectacular performance. Great job Margo!

Top Youth B Female results as of 11:06 pm. 1/2 category yet to climb.

Fellow Team USA climber Josh Levin put on a fantastic performance as well and got close to highpoint on his 2nd quali route. Here are some photos from the IFSC Youth World Championship Singapore facebook page:

Such a pretty wall and dramatic setting

Beautiful!

Wow.

A nice sideview. Check out those volumes!

Team USA!

Live feed screen shot: Sean Bailey of Team USA crushing in the bottom right corner

The warm-up wall

Traffic on the warm-up wall

Team USA!

So many countries!

Alex Fritz of Team USA on Day 1

Team USA!

Amazing wall. Amazing setting.

Josh Levin of Team USA on Day 1

Nice clip!

Margarita “Rita” of Team USA on the Female Youth B Quali 2

And now this is happening…

The problem with a tropical destination

Rain!!!

More photos and updates tomorrow. Great job Margo and great job Team USA!

IFSC Youth World Championships – Margo Hayes Qualification 1

Team USA

We are happy to report that Margo did well on her first qualification route yesterday, scoring 25+ 3. Which I think means she is currently tied for 3rd going into the 2nd qualification route today. There were several other 25+ 3. scores, and the highest I saw was 27 1. To see for yourself, click here –> IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional General result female youth B lead.  Nice job so far Margo!!!

Remember, many parts of this event will be broadcast live here - IFSC.tv | Live Climbing from around the World - and we will keep you posted as we learn more results.

Margo Hayes is Competing in Worlds!

This is the wall–on the beach in Singapore!!!

We are so proud of Margo Hayes, who is one of a small group of Team USA climbers representing the US at the 2012 IFSC Youth World Championships in Singapore this week. The competition starts tomorrow Singapore time and you can watch the live feed here – IFSC.tv | Live Climbing from around the World

Read Margo’s profile here - Margo Hayes « Team ABC Boulder

Resultlists will be found here as soon as results start coming in - IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional results - you can use the drop down menus to toggle between events and categories.

Good luck MARGO!!!

Next Generation article from Klettern.de

We are excited to share that Shawn and Brooke are featured in an article entitled “Next Generation” featuring several accomplished young climbers from around the world. The article is on the German climbing site klettern.de.

The cover page:

Brooke, Shawn, Tito, Ashima, Enzo, and more!

Here are links to the articles for Brooke and Shawn. They are in German, but Google Translate does a pretty good, if sometimes funny, job at making them readable. Use the links or click the photos below.

Starke Kinder im Klettersport bei klettern.de – Steckbrief: Brooke Raboutou (11 Jahre)

Starke Kinder im Klettersport bei klettern.de – Steckbrief: Shawn Raboutou (14 Jahre)

Advanced Plus and Elite Try-Outs This Weekend!

If you think you’ve got what it takes, come on down to ABC Saturday or Sunday and show us how hard you can try. All new and returning athletes are expected to try out. Please pre-register (it’s free) so we know how many to expect. See you this weekend!

Open Try Outs Today! Advanced Plus and Elite Try Outs Next Weekend!

Coach Robyn and the American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club has done an extended interview with Coach Robyn. Click the photo above, or click here to read it!  How Robin Erbesfield-Raboutou Makes Kids into Elite Climbers