Monthly Archives: July 2012

2012/2013 Season Try Out Info Update + FAQ

Members of Elite Team ABC 2011/2012 route reading at SCS Divisionals

Due to overwhelming interest we have changed our tryout schedule and added a second set of tryouts for the 2012/2013 season. We also have a short FAQ to answer all the questions you might have about try outs. Click here or use the “Try Out” menu above to read about teams and try outs and get your try outs day on your schedule!

UPDATE: You only have to attend ONE day of ONE session to try out, though some athletes may want to attend one day of each session. Click the “Try Out!” link below for more details.

Try Out! « Team ABC Boulder

Team descriptions and training schedules have also been updated for the 2012/2013 season. Use the “Teams” menu to learn about each team.

See you at try outs!

First 8c for Coach Robyn!

We are happy to congratulate Coach Robyn on realizing her first 8c. Hot on the coattails of Brooke, Robyn has also climbed Welcome to Tijuana.

Here is what she had to say about the ascent:

Inspired once again by my kids, I did Welcome yesterday! By far my hardest send yet. I’ve done three 8b+’s in the past few weeks and this 8C was a strong notch above the other routes I sent. Big milestone for me.

Nice job Robyn!!! So inspiring!!!

8c & New World Record for Brooke!!!

Team ABC representing in Spain – Austin, Isabelle, Coach Garrett, Shawn, Margo, Coach Robyn, and Brooke!

We are very proud to share the news that Brooke has done her first 8c (14b) with Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar, Spain. With this ascent Brooke (age 11) is the youngest person in the world to climb a route this difficult. You may remember last March when Brooke did her first 14a and simultaneously became the youngest person in the world to climb that grade with Italian Tito Traversa, who at the same age did his first 14a on the same day. Now with this ascent of a 14b Brooke holds the title to herself. Nice job Brooke!

Coach Robyn emailed with some info on how the ascent went down:

Brooke sent Welcome to Tijuana! We have been working it together amongst other routes. You know I’ve been doing other routes these past couple of weeks so we have been getting on Welcome a couple times a week just to see how close we could get. Brooke has looked good from the very beginning but until a few days ago, she couldn’t do the final moves just before the belay. These are the same moves that gave Shawn trouble last year (small holds far apart). The taller people do a big move and it’s over but Shawn and Brooke found a way for them that ends up being the hardest moves on the entire climb. Once she got the last boulder problem, she started trying to redpoint. After getting to the top 6 times (basically doing the 8c), she finally pulled off the final 4 moves and sent the route. It was beautiful to watch and the entire valley of Rodellar was cheering for her.

The climbing world is very inspired by the ascent and many sites have posted about Brooke including:

Brooke Raboutou Climbs 5.14b | News from the Field | OutsideOnline.com

Brooke Raboutou, 8c at a mere 11 years of age – Planetmountain.com

Amazing: Brooke Raboutou is youngest ever to climb 8c | ROCK and ICE Magazine

First 5.14b For 11-Year-Old Brooke Raboutou | Climbing Narcissist

 

Brooke Raboutou, 11 ans, réussit Welcome To Tijuana, 8c !

Brooke Raboutou: Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) – Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles

Stevie Haston: More on Brooke Raboutou and 8c, by Stevie Haston.

Brooke Raboutou encadena Wellcome to Tijuana (8c) con once años. Desnivel

Brooke measuring wingspans with Spanish crusher Dani Andrada | desnivel.com

Congratulations Brooke!!!

ABC Site Update – New Profile for Athlete Campbell Sarinopoulos

 

We are excited to share a new profile for Advanced Team Athlete Campbell Sarinopoulos. Click her photo to check it out!

Michael and Brooke featured on 8a.nu

In the past few weeks both Brooke and Michael have been featured on the global climbing ranking site 8a.nu for their exceptional performances on rock. Here are the posts, check 8a.nu to see more. Nice job guys!

2012 SCS Youth Nationals – Final Results

Ariana O’Brien warming up on Semis at SCS Nationals 2012

It’s over. Four days of intense competition, almost 500 competitors, 40,000 square feet of climbing, countless volunteers, some tears and some triumphs later, and it’s all over. The 2012 SCS season finale was an incredible event and set the bar even higher for what is to be expected out of USA climbing. Almost everything went on without a hiccup and there were some points during the event (Male B superfinals to be specific, when Brendan Mitchell from Team Texas became the only boy to top the Male Junior route) when the audience erupted into an explosion of excitement.

We’re incredibly proud of all the ABC climbers that made it to Nationals. It is a tiring and very involved process to even get there and my hat goes off to every single one of them. We’d also like to extend a huge thanks to all of the parents and helpers from Team ABC – without you, none of this would happen, so thank you =)

Finals was super exciting, and we were able to capture Joe’s full and only ascent of the “D” route on camera – here is a link to a playlist with both semi-final and finals footage

Joe and Stella both came out on top for the second year in a row, so another huge congratulations to them as well. Margo placed third and is hungry to regain the top spot, and Isabelle also placed extremely well in 5th – just missing out on an invitation to the US team, but an amazing finish nonetheless.

Mia Manson ready to try hard

Youth D:
Ariana O’Brien -11th
Phoebe Dolan – 9th
Mia Manson – 8th
Ravelle Nelson – 6th
Stella Noble – 1st
Joe Goodacre – 1st

Youth C:
Ivy Todd – 7th
Finn Stack – 10th
Timmy Dolan – 7th

Youth B:
Isabelle Goodacre – 5th
Margo Hayes – 3rd

Isabelle Goodacre trying to float through the upper crux of Semis at SCS Nationals 2012

Full results can be found here

We weren’t able to capture the team title this year, but we are looking forward to making us even better climbers this year. Another huge thank you to Stone Summit who has supported this event three years in a row and is one of the most incredible facilities we have ever been to.

2012 SCS Youth Nationals – Day 3 Difficulty Results

Photo courtesy of Drew Dolan

Phoebe Dolan and Ravelle Nelson having a blast

Another day, another eleven competitors through. Semi-finals knocked out two of some of our strongest kids – Ethan Kruteck and Michael O’Rourke. Yesterday, as Jackie mentioned, claimed Malcolm Oliver. I want to personally congratulate them for making it all the way to Nationals and to reaffirm just how strong they are and that none of this changes that =)

Tomorrow is the final day of nationals and the true test for the remaining competitors. The kids are ready to go and are eagerly anticipating their finals routes. Moving to finals will be…

Youth D:
Ariana O’Brien
Ravelle Nelson
Mia Manson
Phoebe Dolan
Stella Noble
Joe Goodacre

Youth C:
Ivy Todd
Timmy Dolan
Finn Stack

Youth B:
Isabelle Goodacre
Margo Hayes

Another huge congratulations to ABC’s speed finalists who all climbed 10m in 12 seconds or less!
Mia Manson (6th – 11.74 seconds)
Ariana O’Brien (4th – 10.63 seconds)
Joe Goodacre (2nd – 6.83 seconds!)

Full results can be found here

SCS Nationals 2012 Day 3 – Speed Results!

Congratulations to Joe Goodacre, Ariana O’Brien, and Mia Manson for making finals in Speed Climbing! Joe took 2nd, Ariana took 4th, and Mia took 6th. Joe and Ariana both made the National Speed Climbing Team! Nice job!!!

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Photo above of girl’s podium by Coach Mike Auldridge. Photos below courtesy Jennifer O’Brien

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2012 SCS Nationals Day 2 Results Difficulty and Speed!

Margo Hayes | photo by Michelle Dolan

Difficulty

Day 2 has passed and we have 14 climbers through to semifinals for difficulty!

Coach Garrett reports:

Kids had a great second day. We only lost one kid – Malcolm. He’s such a hard worker and really deserved to be in there with everyone, but it’s his first year in “B” so he’s got one more year to catch up.

We nearly lost Ethan and Timmy to some early slips, but they sneaked in with a tie at 17th and are going to show everyone what a fluke yesterday was tomorrow at semis.
“D” girls all flashed and impressed as usual. Margo and Is also both looked in top form, and Joe was one of a few “D” boys to finish the second qualifier.
O’Rourke also had a good day, getting less than 2 holds from the top before coming off.
All in all, 14 are advancing to semis and we have two speed finalists for tomorrow night – Ari and Joe. Stella, Mia, Ethan and Finn were close but missed out right on the cut. Is probably would have also been in there had she not had an unfortunate slip the first day. Apparently, Entreprise doesn’t actually mold the exact speed hold….

UPDATE – Mia Manson actually did squeak into speed finals.

Different categories have different numbers of climbers advancing to semis. Here are links to full result lists from qualifiers in categories with ABC athletes. Full results for all categories can be found here – SCS Nationals

Female Youth B – Isabelle Goodacre & Margo Hayes in a multi way tie for first

Female Youth C – Ivy Todd 4th

Female Youth D – Mia Manson, Stella Noble, Phoebe Dolan, & Ravelle Nelson and Ariana O’Brien are tied for first

Male Junior – Michael O’Rourke 12th

Male Youth B – Malcolm Oliver 23rd – no advance, taking 17 to semis of male youth b

Male Youth C – Finn Stack 11th, Timmy Dolan 17th, Ethan Kruteck 18th

Male Youth D – Joe Goodacre 1st

Difficulty Semifinals Running Order – http://scsnationals.org/register/SCS2012SportSemiRun.pdf

Timmy Dolan | photo by Michelle Dolan

Speed

Ariana O’Brien, Mia Manson & Joe Goodacre have made finals in Speed Climbing!

Speed Finals Running Order – http://scsnationals.org/register/SCS2012SpeedFinalRun.pdf

Nice job everybody, and good luck tomorrow!!!

SCS Nationals 2012 – Day 1 Difficulty and Speed Results & Photos!

2012 SCS Junior Nationals Day 1 photo by Tyson Schoene of Team Vertical World

2012 Sport Climbing Series Nationals has kicked off in Atlanta, Georgia.

Difficulty

Coach Garrett reports that all 15 Team ABC climbers competing flashed their first difficulty qualifier!  2nd difficulty qualifiers happen today.

SCS Nationals Difficulty Day 2 is about to start! Photo courtesy USA Climbing

Speed Climbing

For speed climbing, Mia Manson, Stella Noble, Ariana O’Brien, Michael O’Rourke, Finn Stack, Ethan Kruteck,and Joe Goodacre have made it through qualifiers and will be competing in Semifinals.

For full Speed Qualifiers Results click the links below. Only categories with ABC climbers are listed. For the full listings go to SCS Nationals Resultslists  -

Female Youth B – Isabelle Goodacre 21st, Margo Hayes 29th

Female Youth C – Ivy Todd 18th

Female Youth D – Ariana O’Brien 4th, Stella Noble 10th, Mia Manson 12th, Ravelle Nelson 20th, Phoebe Dolan 23rd

Male Junior – Michael O’Rourke 16th

Male Youth C – Finn Stack 11th, Ethan Kruteck 14th, Max Manson 29th

Male Youth D – Joe Goodacre 2nd

For Speed Semis running order, click here – http://scsnationals.org/register/SCS2012SpeedSRun.pdf

Speed Climbing Qualifiers. Photo courtesy USA Climbing

Congrats Team!  And good luck today!!!