Month: April 2012
Coach Didier let us take some photos to share of the progress that has been made on the new ABC Facility in Boulder. Lots has happened since we last shared photos, and we’re really excited as almost all the plywood is up and many sections are moving towards completion. Some of the wall has even been painted, and Team Athletes Shawn and Brooke Raboutou spent their day off school (it is conference week in Boulder) helping turn the new wall into ABC colors. Enjoy the photos!
Team ABC Athlete Ariana O’Brien’s profile has been updated with several new photos, another video, and her competition results from 2012 ABS Nationals. Click the photo or the link below to check it out!
In the Red River Gorge Spring Break Update we shared the news that Coach Robyn also sent the 14a God’s Own Stone. Rock and Ice was so excited about the news that they posted a story on her send here and now have posted a short interview as well. Check it out here - Erbesfield dishes on God’s Own Stone, or – swapping beta with your daughter | Rock and Ice.com.
Nice job Coach Robyn!
Team ABC athlete Stefan Lavender has joined Team Evolv and is proud to now be sporting some sweet Rasta Shamans on all his projects.
His new shoes are on his update athlete page alongside some new ascents: Stefan Lavender
We would like to congratulate Team ABC Athlete Stefan Lavender for sending his second 14a with Shine in Clear Creek Canyon.
On his 8a scorecard, Stefan said the route took him 3 days of work and he sent first try on his fourth day when he headed up after school.
Nice job Stefan!
Here is a picture of Stefan on the route that we also posted in the Spring Break wrap-up of Stefan and fellow ABC Athlete Michael O’Rourke’s trip to Joe’s Valley.
Read that article here: Stefan and Michael in Joe’s Valley
Learn more about Stefan here: Stefan Lavender
The Red River Gorge
Brooke Raboutou, Margo Hayes, Stella Noble
with Coach Robyn and Coach Garrett
You probably already know that Brooke’s trip to The Red has already gone down in history as Brooke became the youngest female, the youngest American, and one of two of the youngest people in the world ever to climb 14a when she sent God’s Own Stone on March 29th, 2012. More on that here - Brooke Raboutou God’s Own Stone.
You may not know that Brooke’s mom, Coach Robyn, also sent the God’s Own Stone on the last day of the trip and by doing so showed once again that climbing is a sport in which, with proper motivation, training, and practice, you can continue to perform at your top level for many many years.
For those of you who don’t know, 1993 Robyn, then a top competition climber, became the 3rd woman in the world to climb 14a with Silence. That same year she quickly climbed her second with Attention Vous Regard. 15 years later, in August of 2008, Robyn again climbed 14a with Bad Attitude (to the top anchors) in France. She was 45 years old. Since then she has continued to make hard sport ascents including onsights and flashes up to 13b and a another 14a, Quick n’ Toast, in the summer of 2011. (She has also done several boulder problems up to V11.) On this trip Robyn also made a 2nd try ascents of the 13bs Paradise Lost (w/no rest), Golden Boy, and Elephant Man. God’s Own Stone was Robyn’s 5th 14a and she was 48 years old at the time of the ascent.
Though she is happy with her climbing, Robyn’s ascent of GOS took much longer than Brooke’s, and Robyn says that her kids (son Shawn sent his first 14b last summer with Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar) are finally passing her up. As she puts it:
I’ve now been schooled by both Shawn and Brooke.
Stella Noble tried very hard to send her first 13b with Golden Boy, but unfortunately she was unable to pull off the difficult jump at the top of the route on her redpoint burns. Coach Robyn reports:
Stella was super strong overall on the climb but the beginning took just a little too much out of her for the last move to go in linkage.
Hopefully Stella will send this route, as well as any other projects she may choose, on her next trip to the Red.
Margo Hayes did Paradise Lost w/rest (13a) and Golden Boy (13b). She tried to climb the 13b version of Paradise Lost in which you do not take the rest, but after falling at the top several times she decided to take the 13a and move on. She projected Swingline (13d) on the trip as well but didn’t get it.
Margo has previously climbed 13c with Bad Attitude (first anchors) as well sent several 13bs and 13as.
Garrett has for many years been primarily a boulderer, but since he began working with Team ABC Garrett has begun rope climbing as well. On last year’s trip to the Red Garrett sent 2 13as, a 13b, and a 13c. This year he sent three 13bs – Dracula04, Golden Boy, and Elephant Man. He projected Swingline (13d) with Margo, but he didn’t manage to send on the week-long trip either.
Nice job girls and Garrett!
And here’s one more cool photo from the Red:
See what Rock and Ice has to say about Robyn’s ascent - Oh, and Mama climbed 5.14, too | Rock and Ice.com
As promised, here is another exiting report from a Team ABC members’ Spring Break 2012 climbing trip. For installment 2 we have:
Stefan Lavender & Michael O’Rourke
For Spring Break 2012 Stefan and Michael headed to Joe’s Valley where they ticked many classics as well as an impressive number of V10s and V11s. Michael was recognized on the front page of 8a for his accomplishment of 7 V11 problems over the course of the spring break week. 3 of Michael’s V11 sends happened on the same day, but perhaps even more impressive is his first day in Joe’s in which he climbed 2 V9s, 4 V10s, and 2 V11s! His accomplishments have brought him to 6th place All Time and 4th place currently in the World Junior Bouldering Ranking on 8a.
Stefan also sent nearly a handful of V11s and several V10s and V9s and is sitting at 14th All Time and 8th currently in the World Junior Bouldering Ranking on 8a. This is an impressive week of bouldering, especially for two boys who cannot yet sign their own waivers at climbing gyms!
There aren’t many pics of the Joe’s trip, but here are a couple of Michael and Stefan taken by their buddy and Spot Comp Team member Sean Morgan.
Stefan and Michael’s Joe’s Valley Ticklist V9 and up
Eye of the Beholder (first ascent after break) – Michael (3/26)
The Worm Turns – Michael (3/26), Stefan (3/26)
W, W & W w/W - Stefan (3/26)
Hydrogenated Oil – Michael (3/27), Stefan (3/27)
Skidmark – Michael (3/30), Stefan (3/30)
Skeleton Key – Michael (4/1)
The Ghost King – Michael (4/1)
Skull – Michael (4/1)
Nerve Extension – Michael (3/26), Stefan (3/26)
Eden – Michael (3/26)
Fingerhut – Michael (3/26)
Resident Evil – Michael (3/26), Stefan (4/1)
Fiery Furnace – Michael (3/27)
Lactation Station – Michael (3/30)
Death Scream – Michael (3/30), Stefan (4/1)
Dunkin’ Donuts – Michael (4/1), Stefan (4/1)
Worst Case Scenario – Michael (3/26)
Playmate of the Year – Michael (3/26)
White Out – Stefan (4/2)
Smokin Joe – Stefan (4/2)
*Grades are always subject to multiple opinions and several of these ascents have been logged by different climbers at different grades. These are the grades the boys gave for the climbs. If you are interested please check out their 8a cards for their full trip ticklists and the comments they made for each ascent.
Nice job guys!!!
To continue with our theme of retro photos, here’re a couple of Coaches Didier and Robyn atop the podium.
New Facility Photo
Updates from Team ABC Spring Break trips to The Red River Gorge and Joe’s Valley coming soon. Stay tuned!